The Amazing Horse
* I have linked all pictures on this
page, so click on any picture for more
The hoof is simply amazing in
that it does so much, is so important and
without it the horse does not live. This is why
the old saying "No Hoof - No Horse" has been
around for years. Taking care of and
understanding the hoof is paramount to good
horsemanship and providing proper care for your horse. I am
not a Farrier or a horse shoer, but I know the
importance of taking care of a horse's feet. I
am putting this page together to help educate
you on the hoof and the importance of proper hoof care.
The picture below shows the natural flexing, movement and how blood flow occurs with a bare foot hoof. A shod hoof cannot move like this, cannot grow or develop strength. How can anyone not see the damage nails and steel shoes do to a hoof?
The picture above is a great
example of the working hoof and how it supports
weight and flexes as a horse walks and moves
and how this action increases blood flow and
keeps the hoof healthy. All of these actions helps provide the horse with padding and shock absorption for the hoof and legs. Which is why stalling
(putting a horse in a stall) is very unhealthy
for the horse and causes a lot of hoof and leg
Pros to Barefoot Hooves:
A healthy foot does not need shoes for protection
The hoof flexes naturally
Hoof grows normally
Blood flow is increased
Greater traction from the hoof expansion and flattening out
Better shock absorption
The digital cushion is allowed to assisting in shock absorption and blood flow
The frog gets pressure assisting in blood flow
Cons to Shod Hooves:
Horseshoes restrict blood flow
Shoes numb the foot from lack of blood (this is why horses go lame when shoes are removed)
No hoof expansion with a shoe
Hoof flexing is prevented
Shoes on a hoof is like putting a clamp on a hose
Many forms of lameness are linked to shoes
Shoes change and affect the coffin bone and prevent the frog from functioning
A shod hoof loses 60 to 80% of the hoof's natural shock absorption
Shoes cause three times the pounding force and pressure to the hoof
The picture below will take
you to a Youtube video that shows an actual
horse hoof that has been removed and shows the
flexing and blood flow of the hoof. **Graphic
Images** The video is excellent to show what
happens every time a horse takes a step. This
also shows how a horse shoe stops this flexing
action, prevents blood flow and does the hoof harm; yet people are
still stuck on putting shoes on horses.
Although the video is not in English, it is
Here Is Link To the Video Click Here to Watch
My Horse Anatomy
Page has many more photos of the
hoof so go there for more photos.
Proof Positive Why Shoes Are Bad
In the picture below you see
a thermograph photo of a horse, which shows
blood flow, heat and circulation of the legs and
hooves. YOU guess what foot has a shoe and
which three do not have shoes? The photo is
linked to a web page with the following quote:
"The single most convincing thing for me was to
see a thermograph of a horse's feet--three of
which were without shoes and one which was
shod. Note the shod foot has virtually no blood
circulation. I will NEVER put shoes on my horse
NOTE: In 1983, Luca Bein, did a dissertation on the shock absorption of a barefoot hoof compared to a shod hoof. His finding were that a conventionally shod hoof loses 60 to 80% of the hoof's natural shock absorption. Bein also demonstrated that a shod hoof on asphalt, at a walk, receives THREE TIMES (3X) the impact force as as a barefoot hoof on asphalt at the trot. Bein found a shoe on a hoof vibrates at about 800 Hertz (Hz), which at that level does damage to living tissue. Think about that, a metal shoe that is nailed into a healthy hoof compromises the hoof wall, triples the impact force of every step, prevents blood flow, damages living tissue, prevents expansion of the hoof, restricts the natural flexing of the hoof, prevents normal growth of the hoof and yet people still put shoes on horses.
REMEMBER: You can trot your horse barefoot on pavement and do three times LESS damage than walking your shod horse on pavement.
Here is a good article and
explanation of the hoof called Guided Tour - Horse Hoof
Anatomy. This has good
information and pictures about the horse's
The picture below is a horse
hoof and leg cut in half with parts labeled. If
you click on the picture it will open a pdf
file on Hoof Care,
it is a large file and may take a while to
download, but worth the read.
The Hoof Suspensory
In the photo below you will
see more of the complex support system for the
horse's leg and hoof. Clicking on the photo
will take you a good site with lots of good
information about the hoof.
Like many things in horses,
"it is a process and not an event", so trying
to fix a hoof or correct a horse in one
trimming just makes matters worse. It takes a
full year, thereabout, for a hoof to grow out
completely. Another old horse saying is "the
hoof you care for today - is the hoof you will ride on in a
year". This means that when horses are
neglected and are not given proper hoof care,
it cannot be fixed in one or two trimmings. It
takes time and "if you take the time it takes -
it will take less time". So I see and hear
people and Farriers claim to fix a hoof in one
trim, it just ain't so and can't be done. You
can start in the right direction; you can relieve pain, balance the hoof, start the repair process, but no hoof is fixed or made perfect in one trimming.
However, you can ruin a hoof in one trimming
very easily. Which is why it is so important
that you understand the mechanics of the hoof
and know how it works, so you don't buy into
that foolishness that is being repeated
throughout the horse world, mainly by people
that don't know and people "that have owned
horses their entire life". Two horse sayings that fit here: "If you take the time it takes, it will take less time" and "The slow way is the fast way with horses."
Reference Glue on Shoes:
This is a new thing and is better than nailing metal shoes to the hoof wall and punching holes in the hoof wall with nails, which compromises the hoof wall, punctures the sealed hoof wall and subjects the Horse hoof to infection, abscess or bacteria. The next time you see a Farrier take off an old shoe from a horse, pay close attention to the hoof. Look at how the wall is dead about the nails, look at the rotting type action that occurs about the nails and where the metal shoe has restricted growth and blood flow. If you look closely, it is very easy to see how unhealthy the hoof is because of the shoe. However, with a fresh trim, some nipper work, some file work and a shinny shoe, the hoof looks all pretty again. What people don't see is the rotting and damage that just starts over until the next change of shoes.
Shoes and nails still restrict the natural flexing, expanding and contraction of the hoof. It still puts unnecessary pressure on the hoof wall, still puts unnatural pressure on the hoof and still makes the hoof weaker in the long term, since it does not allow for natural and normal growth, blood flow and strength. So once again, trying to do something to improve or help a horse still goes against the natural growth and hoof development and ends up doing more damage than letting Mother Nature do what it does best. Barefoot is best.
"Horse Shoes Are Bad For Horses"
care is not that hard, but it takes
time. So trying to rush it or force it only
makes it take longer. Like most things with
horses, "the slow way is the fast way". So just
picking the feet regularly really is a great
way to prevent and spot problems. Picking the
feet does many things that people don't see. It
teaches a horse to have his feet handled, it
forces you to spend time with your horse, it
develops muscles in your back which will help
your riding, it shows dominance over the horse
since you move his feet up and down and take
away his ability to flee or run and most
importantly it trains your EYE.
eye is a process not an event. It
takes years of seeing good and bad hooves to know what is
normal and what is not. A trained eye is
something that needs to be constantly
refreshed. The eye is trained over years and
years of looking at good and bad hooves. Seeing
hooves daily helps you know what looks normal
and what looks odd or out of place. This is how
the eye gets trained. Which is why the misconception is alive and well that horseshoes are good? Since many use shoes and have always seen shoes on horses, they think that is normal. It is not and it is not good for the horse. I am linking many hoof sites to this page. Visit these sites and view
all the pictures of good and bad hooves, train
your eye to you know what you are seeing and
what to look for. This is not something people naturally have or comes without work; they have to learn it. If you just look at your horse's feet, you will never understand
the hoof. It takes 1000's of hooves to start
being able to recognize good from bad. Some
hoof chips are insignificant while others are very
critical. Knowing the difference can save your
horse lots of problems. So invest time viewing
and reading all you can about the hoof. Watch Farriers work on feet, ask questions, notice the hoof before the trim and after the trim. This, like most all things with horses, is not easy
and is not fast. If you invest on the front end
you will save much more time and effort later and it will be
better for your horse.
Another common misconception
out there is that all hooves should look the
same. This is not true; all hooves are rarely
exactly same. Each hoof can be a little different;
trimming all hooves the same can cause
problems. If a Farrier or horse shoer is making
your horse's hooves look the same, then he is
not doing your horse or you any favors. There
are certain aspects of a hoof that mainly deal
with "balance". Balance is important in many ways, but
absolute uniformity is not the same as a well
balanced hoof. If you view the links I have
placed on the pictures and at the bottom of this
page you will start to see what balance is and
will hear this common theme from horse hoof
SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS ABOUT THE HOOF AND BAREFOOT TRIMS:
A horse walks about seven to eight thousand steps a day in Pasture. A horse only walks less than 600 steps a day in a stall. This has negative consequences to blood flow, wear, exercise, flexing, frog stimulation and preventing all that is not good for the hoof.
Everything your horse eats will affect the feet. Some, such as excess sugars, grains and any toxins will have a very negative effect, while a well balanced diet will be beneficial to help keep the hoof health. Minerals, such as copper and zinc are essential for good hoof health. Too much iron is NOT good for the hoof. Although a mineral block and salt block is important, they may not provide everything needed.
Clean water and hydration helps the hoof. Having clean cool water in summer and warm water in winter helps a horse drink more and that is good for the hoof.
Hoof care and trimming are very important to a healthy hoof. Regular trimming keeps the hoof stronger, more balanced, shaped correctly and pressure points are reduced by keeping the hoof appearing flat, but actually level by smoothing off any lumps or bumps in the sole.
Laminitis is inflammation in the hoof. In my experience, Laminitis and abscesses are the most common form of hoof issues. So keep in mind, adequate exercise, proper diet, clean water and correct trimming will create and encourage a healthy hoof.
Remember: The front hooves carry more weight and pressure than the rear. Front hooves pull and back hooves push. Notice in the picture below how this happens.
You can Click on the above Picture to go to SoftTouch Natural Horse Care Site
With this in mind, front hooves hit the ground harder and have more impact. Using easy boots or other type boot on the front feet is beneficial if you are riding on rocky or hard terrain, working longer or harder, or if the horse has been kept on soft or wet terrain making the hoof softer. A healthy hoof should not need boots.
TWO KEY BAREFOOT TRIMMING POINTS: Rounding the hoof edge, commonly called a Mustang roll, helps prevents chips and increases hoof strength. SCOOPING, putting a slight scoop on the sides or quarters of the hoof, helps aid in flexing of the hoof when the horse walks. Here is two pictures of a scooped hoof, notice the raised portion of the hoof. When pressure is placed on the hoof, the front and rear hoof flattens and the scoop allows for flexing.
NOTE: You will NOT see scooping on a shod hoof (a horse with shoes), since shoes prevent flexing or expanding of the hoof, which is why Shoes are Bad for horses.
WARNING ON HOOF CONDITIONERS:
Hoof oils, lotions, conditions or treatments can do more damage than good - if over used. These things soften the hooves. Using them one or twice a month may be OK, but NOT sure they are beneficial. Using them any more will harm and make the hoof weak, slows growth, increases chipping and compromises a healthy hoof.
DON’T OVER USE HOOF TREATMENTS.
I got a question about how do horses in the wild get rocks out of their feet if no one picks them out. In the wild horses walk more, the run more, they get drinks in mud and ponds, they cross streams, and all of these things help remove objects from the hoof. When a horse kicks out at another horse or predator, that snapping action removes things from hooves. When a horse stands or walks in mud, that suction removes things from the hoof. When mud dries in a hoof and then when the horse runs, that dried mud flies off and pulls things from the hoof. When a horse paws with his front feet, that action helps remove things from the hoof. The more things we keep natural the better it is for the horse.
My Advice for Basic Hoof
If I had to tell someone in
50 words or less how to care for a horse's
hooves here is what I say and what I believe.
Pick the feet daily, spray a bleach mix once a
week, learn how to use a rasp (file) so you can
do a light "mustang roll" once every two weeks
on your horse's feet, round off and smooth out
chips and cracks until your Farrier or trimmer
comes out, watch your Farrier trim your
horse(s), learn what the hoof looks like before
the trim and after the trim and ask questions from
your Farrier. Be involved and study what your
horse's feet look like after their trim. If
you trim yourself "less is more." Always
trim less; you will not do damage or harm if
you remove too little. You WILL do damage if
you remove too much.
My basic rules for hoof trimming are; the sole and hoof wall should be about the same level. I do not trim or remove sole unless I see a lump or uneven spot, otherwise I let the natural removal take place as the hoof flexes and is walked on. I roll the edges of the hoof wall to make it stronger and help prevent cracks and chips. I rasp the hoof once every two weeks to remove small amounts of growth, chips or flares. I take off the bars but I do not take them too low - about even with the sole but better a little higher than the sole then too low. Length of the hoof is not the main issue, level, balanced and hoof wall and sole as one is key for me.
Some do's and
don'ts when it comes to Hoof Care /
Don't over use conditioners
and hoof dressings. Using these products too
much interferes with the natural hoof
development. It can make the hoof soft causing
more damage, chipping and soreness. Don't
remove too much when filing with a rasp. Don't
use trimmers (nippers) this makes it too easy
to remove too much hoof wall and if you are
caring for the feet regularly, then you will
not need nippers. A light rasping once a
week or every two weeks will keep the hoof stable and will
not create large changes in the hoof, like what
happens when you just have your horse's feet
trimmed once every six or eight weeks. Keep a
bleach mix (3/4 water - 1/4 bleach) in a spray
bottle and spray in the hoof (frog area) after
you pick the feet, about once every week or so.
Do not do this everyday unless you smell a foul
odor coming from the frog area when you pick
the feet. If a foul odor is present, you can use this bleach every day
but do not use it for over 4 or 5 days in a row since it
will kill good bacteria if used too much or too
often. And lastly, NO SHOES. Shoes are bad for
horses, and transfer pounding and shock waves up
the hoof, bones, tendons and legs. Shoes stop the
natural movement and expansion of the hoof. In
the picture below you can see the horse move
naturally with NO
SHOES. Nailing a non-movable
metal shoe to a hoof stops and prevents this
natural and needed movement. This movement is
needed for blood flow and to keep a hoof
healthy. Notice the hoof flexes many ways
(front to back, side to side and flat), all
stopped by shoes.
If you are switching to
barefoot from shoes, give it time. The horse
may be a little sore at first. Too many people
want to say they tried barefoot and they took
shoes off for one month and the horse was sore,
so they went back to shoes. This is typical
horse people wanting everything too fast and
always in a hurry. It takes a hoof a full year
to grow out. After years of putting nails and
metal on the hoof and after all these years of
screwing up the hoof, people want the hoof to
adjust overnight to barefoot. "The slow way is
the fast way;" give it time. There are many things to
consider when going from shoes to barefoot.
Things that could matter are time of year, type of ground, how
the horse is kept (stall or pasture), how the
horse is used or ridden, how bad the hooves
are, how the Farrier took off shoes, how the
Farrier trimmed the horse and many other
factors. So don't expect overnight results and
plan to have a few problems for a year until
the hoof has had time to adjust to a natural
hoof. Another thing is, if your Farrier wants or
tells you that your horse needs shoes, don't
have them trim your horse barefoot, they can
make the horse lame and sore so they can be
right and then tell you that "they told you so."
Then they get to convince you that your horse
needs shoes or has bad feet. Expect your horse to get sore and may limp a little; that is normal. If you break your leg and get your cast off, you will still limp. The hoof may get sore after a ride since the hoof has never supported your weight or his weight without shoes. This will strain the hoof at first until it has time to grow and get strong. Do not take the shoes off, ride like you normally do, run the crap out of your horse, or jump and do all the other activities that are hard on horses feet and legs and expect everything to be normal and great two weeks after you remove the shoes. Impatient people always want the easy and fast way, so they make excuses that their horse NEEDS shoes since it is easier for them. Selfishness and not putting the horse first is all that really means!
Things I Think are Important When Trimming Horse Hooves
I thought I would do a list of top 10 things to watch for and then as I was thinking, there are other things to remember and look out for when trimming your horses. Therefore, here is my list of things that I think are important about trimming hooves.
Less is more: It is better to take off too little than too much. It is better to trim a little every week than once every 8 weeks. Doing less changes the hoof slower and does not shock the horse’s balance or hoof.
The Hoof Wall: It is a capsule for the hoof. It holds many things together. Nails in the hoof compromises the hoof wall, which allows dirt and bacteria inside the hoof. The hoof wall protects the interior hoof, so making it thin or filing the sides weakens the hoof wall. The only part of the hoof wall that should be trimmed is the part that touches the ground. The hoof wall should not be shorter or higher than the sole.
Balanced and Level hoof: This is a guideline and not an absolute required perfection. The hoof wall should be about level with the sole, but should not be shorter. It is better to have a little long hoof wall past the sole than too short and have it higher and above the sole. Ideally, if the hoof wall is very slightly longer than sole then they will grow together and become tougher as one.
The Sole: The sole is not weight bearing and is also weight bearing, depending on ground surface type. In sand pressure is on the sole and hoof wall. On hard surfaces or concrete, the hoof wall should be more weight bearing than the sole. On barefoot horses, the sole is used more than on shod horses. The sole is naturally shaved or foliated so it wears down with use. I only remove sole when it is uneven and gets bumps or protrusions that go past the hoof wall. If the sole is thick, the hoof wall has to be longer than sole. If the sole foliates then the hoof walls become longer than sole since the sole is now shorter or higher. A balanced approach is best. Keep the sole and hoof walls almost even with the sole a little shorter or with the hoof wall a little longer.
The Bars: This again is said to be weight bearing and NOT weight bearing. If the bars are being pushed over and out then they are too long and are bearing too much weight. When dealing with bars, I think it is better to have them level with sole rather than longer or taller than sole. The rear of the bar helps determine the height of the heel.
The Heel: Another area that some say high is better other say lower is better. I say not too long or not too short. Too short is touching or almost touching the bulb. Too long is making the horse walk on the toe too much. Balance is better, the sole determines the heel height. Longer than sole is better than shorter than sole. The bars and sole come back and balance with the heel. If the heel is too short, the hoof is not balanced and the horse walks on the heel instead of the entire hoof. If it is too long, then more weight is on the toe and the hoof is not carrying the load balanced.
The frog: Some say trim short, some say do not trim. I think a little longer is better than too short. The frog wears down like the sole and the hoof wall. So it should not be shorter than the sole. Since the hoof flexes, it should touch or get pressure from the ground when the horse walks, but should not be lower than the hoof wall since that would cause too much pressure. So laying a rasp or straight stick across the hoof the rasp should touch both sides of the hoof wall but it should not touch the sole or the frog. If the frog touches the frog slightly with no pressure then that would be about prefect. That way when pressure from the horses weight is put on the hoof, then the frog will get slight pressure. The flexes is encouraged and assisted by pooling or scooping the quarters of the hoof wall.
Dealing with flares: Flares are caused by many things but normally by overgrowth of the hoof wall. If the hoof is trimmed every two weeks, flares will not happen since overgrowth is prevented. When a flare happens, it should be corrected from the bottom of the hoof wall and not so much from the side of the hoof wall. But if it is bad some slight shaving of the side wall may be needed. Flares unbalance the hoof, since one side gets more weight and pressure it causes the hoof wall to relieve that pressure by moving out or flaring. This also causes a separation of the hoof wall and sole, both weaken the hoof and put unbalanced pressure, which throws off balance and pressure so the horse’s weight is put on the quarter, toe or heel. This deforms the hoof as it grows. Prevention of flares is much better than correction of flares.
Dealing with Splits and Chips: Splits normally start as chips. They can also start from damage of the cornet band or damage to hoof wall. Chips on the bottom of the hoof wall can be managed and rounded to help prevent chips. When a chip happens it changes the balance of the hoof and transfers more pressure to other parts of the hoof. So by rounding and re-balancing the hoof slightly, you help prevent the chip from becoming a split. The more balanced the hoof the more the weight is distributed evenly so the less pressure points occur on the hoof. Again, a slight trim and rounding every two weeks keeps the hoof more balanced and even so minor things are corrected before they advance to more troublesome issues. More frequent trims also helps the hoof grow more evenly with even pressure and balanced growth, so that makes the hoof stronger. A stronger hoof supports weight more evenly, wears more evenly and functions better.
Scooping or Pooling Quarters: This is basically making the quarters a little shorter than the toe and heel. This is fine-tuning the hoof. By pooling or scooping the quarters, you allow a little spring or flexing action in the hoof whereby the toe and heel flatten out creating more movement in the hoof. This movement encourages sole growth and foliation, frog pressure and pumping action and increases blood flow to hoof. This is very easy to do too much, so remember less is more and better to have too little scoop than too much.
If this does not make sense or you do not understand the terms I used, then YOU need to do more reading and studying so you know parts of the hoof. Working on a hoof is like horsemanship, it is a process and not an event.
Thrush, Whiteline Disease, Stinky Hoof - Care and Treatments
I get many questions on Thrush, treatments and home remedies. I decided to do a section about it to have something to direct people to when they ask. So here is some information.
Thrush has many names and is really a master of infection. It can be bacterial, Fungal, Yeast and or spores. Since Yeast feeds on dead bacteria, killing the bacteria feeds the yeast. Killing the thrush can kill good tissue and hoof so that is not good. Therefore, treating or killing this can be a viscous circle. Thrush is the equine equivalent of "athlete's foot" of the hoof. Thrush is Anaerobic, meaning the bacteria does not do well in air. Which means it does really well in dark moist areas with little or no oxygen.
Picking the feet often removes mud, feces and other infectious material that can contribute to thrush. Having a horse NOT locked in a stall where it has to stand in it's urine and feces helps prevent it. Allowing horse to be free in pasture to move, walk and get exercise helps increase blood flow to hoof and they helps prevent thrush.
This is where it gets tricky. Every Farrier, Vet and horse owner has his or her opinion. I am going to list various treatments with some pros and cons. You can do your own research and make your own decision since each case of thrush can be different and each horse is different and in different environments. Most all treatments can include soaking the hoof and or packing the treatment into the hoof and deep into the frog area.
Boil 1 pint of water for 10 minutes.
Stir in 3 tablespoons of chlorine bleach.
Stir in ½ teaspoon Baking soda.
Keep refrigerated for up to 5 days.
You may also purchase Chlorpactin powder over the counter, which can be mixed with water per package directions.
Here is a good PDF file about Chlorpactin Solution Uses and background
Any athlete's foot crème or antibiotic crème seems to be popular and effective
Pick the hooves frequently to expose to oxygen and remove debris
Chlorine Dioxide has been demonstrated to be bactericidal, fungicidal, virucidal and sporicidal while remaining harmless to healthy tissue.
Chlorine Dioxide Info
Soaking the hoof in Lysol and or spraying Lysol on the hoof
Destine or other fugal fighting creams seems to help fight the fungal part
Gold bond Foot powder in riding boots or put in hoof helps remove moisture and keep the hoof dry - a dry hoof tends to be a health hoof and does not promote thrush
Have a tube of desitin (dries the hoof), triple antibiotic ointment (for infection), an athletes foot cream (to fight thrush), and a tube of monostat (to fight yeast), mix well together and put in an empty syringe and insert into all parts of the hoof. NO needles and no internal injections, just forcing it into cracks and tight spots.
50/50 mix of a triple antibiotic and anti fungal ointments
Lysol Concentrate" to help with the infections affecting the frog area. You can saturate a cotton ball and insert it in between the central sulcus (bulb) area and frog area
Soak the hoof for a half hour in 3" of water with 2 tbsp of borax helps clean and kill
Betadine and hydrogen peroxide mixture - may kill good hoof
Bleach and Water mix - 1/4 bleach - may kill good stuff
Iodine crystals and turpentine
Apple Cider Vinegar and a little water, specifically, Braggs. Vinegar in general is great for killing bacteria and helps balance the pH in the hoof
Packing the hoof with sugardine, a mixture of sugar and betadine until it forms a paste
hydrogen peroxide is oxygen rich but may harm good tissue
Calendula Ointment and an Athlete's Foot Cream (1% Clotrimazole). Mix 50/50
Strong Lysol (strong smell). 1:1 ratio and used daily
Some popular commercial products are:
Clean Trax - "The active ingredient in CleanTrax is oxyclorsine, The compound is non-necrotizing, extremely surface active and destroys bacteria, viruses, fungi and fungal spores on contact in either the liquid or vapor form."
White Lightening - "White Lightning® is the active Chlorine Dioxide (ClO2) solution to Thrush, Skin Fungus and White Line Disease. Chlorine Dioxide has been demonstrated to be bactericidal, fungicidal, virucidal and sporicidal while remaining harmless to healthy tissue."
Dri cow mastitis treatment, Keratex Hoof Gel - allows air stops moisture
Dry Cow mastitis treatment and then pouring Wonder Dust into the grooves on top of it and packing it in
Tomorrow "Dry Cow" mastitis treatment. You can buy it online at Valley Vet Supply. Tomorrow Dry Cow Link
Milton Order Milton Products Here
Many different views on this, many factors that can change treatment results. I did a video on this topic where I discuss this Discussing Thrush Video - Rick Gore Horsemanship"
It appears that any anti-fungal, anti-Yeast, anti-bacterial all seem to be reasonable alternatives. Borax is found in some laundry detergents and appears to be a good anti-fungal and prevent mold spores, that is why it is used to clean water damage in homes. Do your own research, consult with your Vet and Farrier and do right by your horse.
This, like horsemanship, is a process NOT an event. Hoof care, how the horse is kept, where and under what conditions the horse is kept, consistent hoof picking, hoof trims, diet, location and environmental conditions and many other factors all come into play when preventing or treating Thrush.
This site The Horse Hoof
gives some good tips on treating Thrush, stinky hoof, whiteline and other issues with cleaning and treating the hoof.
Good Hoof Sites:
Here are some good
pictures of healthy
This site has a lot of
selling and pushing items (not endorsing any
products), but has good pictures of good and bad
Here are some good
pictures of hooves
before and after trims
Here is a nice report
that explains the importance of Breakover and heal verses toe
Here is a great article
on proper hoof care and
how bad shoes are. In this article
it states that "Studies showed that the impact
force a shod hoof receives on hard ground is
10-33 times that of an unshod hoof. The
vibrations set up in the hoof by the vibration
of the metal shoe is approximately 800 Hz,
compared to "only" 150 Hz with a rubber shoe."
That is just the horse, then add the weight of
gear, people, running and jumping and people
wonder we have so many lame horses.
Here is an article on
shoes to barefoot. There is a
great explanation that says "THE REASON FOR THE
PROBLEMS ENCOUNTERED AFTER REMOVING THE SHOES
IS THE HEALING OF A DEFORMED HOOF, ALTERED FROM
ITS NATURAL, PHYSIOLOGICALLY SOUND
Things to consider if you
are planning on going barefoot or
getting rid of shoes.
Here is a lot of good
photos of the hoof before and after