Think Like A Horse - Natural Horsemanship

Horse's love it when their owner's understand them; Rick Gore Horsemanship
Horsemanship is about the horse teaching you about yourself.

Horse Health:

I decided to add this page since my other pages are getting long.  I will try and put things related to health and welfare of horses on this page.

Vet Care Today:

Knowledge about the horse has come a long way.  One of the best large animal Veterinarian schools in the country is at University of California at Davis (UCD).  From the days of working on horses on a barrel and plywood, we have now gone to full hospitals with operating rooms, water and pool therapy.  If you have a medical question about horses, UCD is the place to be.  I am fortunate to be close to this facility where technology his so advanced.  For good information and reading about horse medicine, this is place to find it.  Remember knowledge of the horse is the best gift you can give to your horse.

Impaction Colic:

The link below is one of the better articles on colic and impaction I have seen.  Some time horses that won't pass can be loaded into a trailer, this response will encourage a bowel movement and may help get things going.  If I notice a horse is not drinking or has sweated more than normal (foaming or salt marks on hair) I will dip my dry hay in water before feeding. This removes dust and wets the hay, which helps in getting a little more water and not so dry food into the horse. 

Impaction link:  Http://www.equestrianlife.com/wiki/Impaction

Removing Bot Eggs: 

When removing bot eggs off the legs of horses be careful where you do this.  The bot egg (The little yellow dots or specks normally on the legs) need to be ingested to produce the worm.  So removing these eggs in the grass, in the stall where feeding occurs or over hay helps the eggs get into the horse.  This is bad.  So when removing or scraping bot eggs off your horse, do it in area where feeding is not an issue.  Especially don't do while your horse is eating since the odds are some hay will fall and the horse will eat it along with some bot eggs and your horse gets worms.  Bot eggs should be removed to prevent the horse from ingesting the eggs, which will give them worms. 

Cryptorchid:

 
This may explain why your so called gelding is acting like a stud.  A Cryptorchid is when one or both of a colt’s testicles do not drop into the scrotum.  So the little rascal is up inside the horse still producing male hormones that create stallion behavior.   The word means:  (Crypt = hidden, Orchid = testes).  I got a question from a reader that said she bought a gelding and found out later it was a stallion.  After smiling and shaking my head a bit, I started thinking that maybe she was fooled because of a Cryptorchid.  All breeds of horses can have this but it is more common in Quarter Horses, Saddlebred's, Percheron's and ponies.  Some testes that have not dropped are still fertile.  If both do not drop then they are normally fertile, however if only does not drop then it is normally sterile.  Why should you care about this?  If some backyard Vet does the castration of your colt, he may or may not tell you about this.  A castration is easy and can be done locally if both testes have dropped.  However, in the case of a Cryptorchid, surgery is normally required.  Since this procedure is more expensive, some people may be dishonest (dishonest horse people, tell me it is not so) and just have the dropped testes cut off and never mention the Cryptorchid.  Something to be aware of when you think you have a gelding and he acts like a stallion.

Recommended Vaccinations:

TETANUS TOXOID;  When a wound such as a deep puncture is contaminated, toxins from the anaerobic bacterium Clostridium tetani, which thrives in the equine environment, cause lockjaw and general muscle spasms, usually resulting in death.  Vaccinate yearly. Give a booster vaccination at the time of penetrating injury or surgery if most recent dose was more than six months earlier. Broodmares should receive a vaccination four to six weeks before foaling.

RABIES;  Invasion of the central nervous system by a virus that is fatal if untreated; it also transmits to other animals--including humans.  Recommended yearly, especially in areas where rabid wildlife is reported or areas considered to be endemic.

WEST NILE VIRAL ENCEPHALMYELITIS;  A mosquito-born encephalitis that can be deadly to horses and has been reported in all but a few states.  Vaccination recommended very six months.

Two West Nile Virus vaccines are now available; consult your veterinarian about the best choice for your horse. If you're vaccinating your horse against WNV for the first time, he'll require a booster after the initial injection.

INFLUENZA; Acute, contagious, viral respiratory-tract inflammation; occurs in isolated cases or in epidemics. Your veterinarian can recommend which form of the vaccine is suitable for your horse. Intranasal Vaccine every six months; add booster two to four weeks before anticipated exposure, such as a show or a long haul.
Intranasal vaccine gives a good immune response when properly applied but can be tricky to administer. If your horse is fussy about substances sprayed up his nostrils, consider using the injectable form.  Injectable Vaccine every six months; add a booster two to four weeks before anticipated exposure.

RHINOPNEUMONITIS;  Caused by a herpes virus, a contagious infection of the respiratory tract; often induces abortion in pregnant mares.  Optional - every six months.  Rhinopneumonitis and Influenza vaccines are sometimes administered in a single combined dose. If your mare is bred, consult your veterinarian about a Rhino vaccination schedule to safeguard her pregnancy.

Some Additional Vaccines:

EE/WEE/VEE;  Eastern Western Venezuelan Equine Encephalomyelitis, aka Sleeping Sickness, is a vector-borne viral disease causing inflammation of the brain and spinal cord.  Vaccinate yearly, in spring (before insect season).  Where Encephalomyelitis is common and/or where there are two annual mosquito "blooms," give a booster EEE/WEE/VEE vaccination every six months about a month before the onset of the mosquito season.

Strangles (also equine distemper)    "See below"

Strangles / Vaccines Information Links:

Here is a good site with information about Strangles.  Be aware this company makes the vaccine so they are somewhat bias, however it appears to provide good information:  

http://www.cyberhorse.net.au/csl/strangles.htm

 Additional information on Strangles:  Click Here

This is another link to UC Davis Vet School site with lots of other info on Strangles.

 http://www.vetmed.ucdavis.edu

The link below has a good chart for Vaccines, schedules, etc.

http://www.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/CEH/docs/horsereport/pubs-HR23-1-bkm-sec.pdf

EPM - Opossum Disease:

Clinical signs are almost always asymmetrical (not the same on both sides of the horse). 

  • Ataxia (lack of coordination), Spasticity (stiff, stilted movements), abnormal gait or lameness
  • Lack of coordination and weakness which worsens when going up or down slopes or when head is elevated
  • Muscle atrophy, most noticeable along the top line or in the large muscles of the hindquarters, but can sometimes involve the muscles of the face or front limbs
  • Paralysis of muscles of the eyes, face or mouth, evident by drooping eyes, ears or lips
  • Difficulty swallowing
  • Seizures or collapse
  • Abnormal sweating
  • Loss of sensation along the face, neck or body
  • Head tilt with poor balance; horse may assume a splay-footed stance or lean against stall walls for support
  • Three things seem to influence progression of the disease:
    1. The extent of the infection (i.e. the number of organisms ingested)
    2. How long the horse harbors the parasite prior to treatment
    3. The point(s) in the brain or spinal cord where the organism localizes and the damage occurs.

    Click here to link with more detailed information.

Pigeon Fever:

This is a common disease in horses and is commonly confused that pigeons carry it or pass it.  This is not true, but many believe it.  If you read the snake bite section on this page you will see a link to a video where a chest abscess is cut.

**SEE VIDEO OF AN ABSCESS BEING CUT **  WARNING GRAPHIC

Click the link below to download and then veiw. 

HORSE CHEST ABSCESS.FLV

 

Pigeon Fever Article link

Pigeon Fever in Horses

What is Pigeon Fever

Sheath Cleaning & Bean Removal:

There are some personal cleaning that needs to be done with horses.  A gelding or stallion needs to have his sheath cleaned.  The sheath is the hole or skin where the penis is pulled back in.  You can clean this with just water, but Excalibur is specifically made for cleaning out your horse's sheath.  Some people use Ivory Soap (unscented) and warm water.  Using warm water sometimes helps a horse drop or relax so you can have more access to the penis.  Another tip is to use an old sock, slide your hand in the sock (like a soft glove) or you can use a latex glove and then just rub and soften up the build up of dirt and other debris in the sheath.  Make sure you rinse very well and do not use baby oil or other things to clean this area or you will get swelling and irritation that will require a vet visit.  Most horses can do with a cleaning at least twice a year.  Depending on the horse may require more, but cleaning when not needed is better than never cleaning.  Once a month is way too much, some bacteria is needed up there so too much cleaning is as bad as too little.  Watch a video on Sheath Cleaning:  Click Here

Not only is it important to clean the sheath and shaft for debris, it is also necessary to check for a "bean".  A bean is smegma that accumulates and forms a bean looking wax bead.  This is normally found around the urethra and has to be searched out.  The surrounding pictures will show you what a bean looks like and how to locate it and remove it.  When the horse drops you have to roll the skin back from around the urethra and locate the bean, normally on the top area of the urethra.  Remember, don't just try and get this the first time.  Do lots of desensitizing with your horse and this area.  Your horse has to be  very comfortable with you digging around and being gentle in this area, so lots of touching and rubbing long before you try for the bean.  This is not a fun job but it is required for the health of your horse.  The white/yellowish bean is what you will want to remove.  In the last, black and white picture show how the urethra is in the center of rolled skin so that is where the bean will be hidden.  If you are still unsure, most vets will do this and clean the sheath for a fee when they sedate the horse for teeth floating.  NOTE: If you click on the pictures they will take you to other links that explain this.

NOTE: The pictures are on my horsemanship page and you click on them there.

Signs of late-stage pregnancy in Mares:

  • About 2 weeks before foaling, the mare’s belly move from a hanging position to a position that fills out her flank area.
  • When she has about 1 week to go, you will notice her udder increasing, some mares you won't depending on how many foals they have had.
  • About 4 days before, the foal would have moved back into the position to be born.
  • About 24 to 48 hours before birthing, the mare's teats will become waxy. This is to stop the milk from squirting out. As the mare gets closer, the 'caps' will fall off allowing the milk to trickle out.
  • Before a mare delivers the hips will get very lose and relaxed
  • The mare may paw, sweat and pin ears more
  • Other signs are enlarged udders with drops of colostrums (the first milk the foal receives), frequent urination, swelling of the vulva and sweating

Floating Teeth:

 
This is another one of those personal choices.  If he is not showing pain and not losing weight, stay out of it.  We humans always want to think we have to help the horse too much.  Horses that are in pasture and graze all the time may not need floating for many years or until they get older.  This floating teeth thing makes people feel better, make vets a lot of money and are done far too often when not needed.  Horses that are stalled and fed twice a day may need it more since it is not natural for horse just to eat twice a day.  If it ain't broke, don't fix it.  I hear lots of people say “if grain falls out of a horse's mouth then their teeth need floating”, Horse Pucky!  Horses don't eat grain in the wild, they each grass, they eat hay, all horses drop grain when they eat it, their mouths are not made for grain they are made for Hay.  Ask a retired Vet if teeth need floating every year, they will tell you no, but most people think they do and when people want it and are willing to pay for it, so the Vet will do it.  Never ask a Barber if you need a haircut, don't ask a Farrier if your horse needs shoes, don't ask a trainer if your horse needs training and don't ask a Vet if your horse's teeth need floating....   :)

Snakebite:

If you ride in a area where snakes are plentiful you may want to carry some pieces of cut garden hose with you.  If you trailer out a lot and you may want to keep some hose in your trailer tack room in case your horse or someone else's horse gets bit.   Horses like dogs normally get bit in the face when investigating a snake.  When this area swells, it cuts off the air supply.  By inserting some hose into the nostrils, you can save your horse until you get to a vet.  Remember a horse can't breathe through their mouth, so if they lose their nose airway they will die.  You can secure the hose with duct tape or other medical tape.These are some good links to more info about horse bites:

http://www.horsesring.com/forums/general-discussions/20748-recommendations-on-rattlesnake-bite-management.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMzvUW6XO-o  (Warning: Don’t watch while eating, this show the how much pressure, fluid, infection and heat can build up in a (abscess) from a snake bite)

http://www.equisearch.com/horses_care/health/first_aid/snakebite051103/

http://www.horses-and-horse-information.com/articles/0100reptilian.shtml

http://www.ehow.com/how_2090049_treat-snakebite-horse.html

http://www.whmentors.org/saf/snakes.html

http://www.thehorse.com/ViewArticle.aspx?ID=6165

Proud Cut Geldings:

This is term that refers to a gelding that still acts like or behaves like a Stallion (Stud).  Some of these behaviors can be herding, snaking, mounting mares, chasing or charging other geldings and just a very dominate disposition.  Some say this is caused by not having all the testicular tissue removed by the person that gelded the horse.  I think it also has to do with how old the horse was when he was gelded.  The longer a horse remains a Stud, the more traits he will keep after he is finally cut.  Testosterone is produced and this can be an additional factor for this behavior.  Some people say this behavior can be caused by an over active adrenal gland.  No matter the cause, this is not horse's fault and is all instinctive behavior. 

Shipping Fever:

This refers to sickness that is caused by shipping a horse.  This is a respiratory illness that comes from tying the horse’s head high and not allowing the horse to lower his head on long trips.  If dust or other foreign objects get into the horses airway,  a horse needs to be able to lower his head and expel the object.  If the head is tied high, he cannot do that.  Combine that the stress of travel and being trapped, with long trips, no stops or breaks for the horse and you got yourself a sick horse.  Stress is a powerful immune killer.  Extended stress suppresses the immune system in horses and humans.  Shipping fever (Pleuropneumonia) can be prevented by allowing the horse to be able to lower his head during shipping or while loaded in a trailer, lots of breaks and rest stops and making trips as less stressful as possible.  Signs of sickness can be coughing, discharge from the nose, pawing, kicking, fever, sweating and loss of appetite and no water intake. 

**  Here is a good health link for horses:  www.myhorsematters.com 

Rain Rot:

Help your horse's hair dry faster.  Fluff the wet hair by rubbing against the grain.  This will cause it to air dry and help it dry faster.  It will also help prevent rain rot or rain scald.  Rot happens when the hair stays wet too long and never dries.  If there is a break in the rain, brush the hair to remove mud and distribute natural oils.  Most horses stay dry under their belly, so a dry brush should be used there first, so you don't wet it and chill the horse.  If you use your hands to rub and fluff all the hair you will decrease drying time and increase air exposure to the hair.  This will also allow the hair to dry deep in the winter fur and help prevent rot and help your horse to stay warmer if the temp drops.  I have heard that using Listerine on the rot will help it clear up, I have not confirmed this, but have heard this from several people.  The photo to the right is some severe rain rot, the photo to the left is more common, more of a hear loss.  Using a blow dryer works well and sacks the horse out to noise and warm wind.  This is just one more thing that the horse will learn not to be fearful of and it will warm him, dry his coat and help prevent rot.   Mud scald or mud fever is like this as well, here is a good link for treatment of Mud Fever:  Click Here

Intramuscular Injection:

How and where injections in the neck must be given.  The correct place is important to avoid important structures such as arteries, vertebra and nerves. A method to identify this area is to:

  • Place your hand flat on the horse’s neck just behind the halter
  • Slide your hand down the neck towards the shoulder blade
  • Stop when you reach the front of the shoulder blade
  • Spread apart your index finger from your middle finger
  • Between your fingers is a good place to give the injection. 

The injection should be given in the last 1/3 of the neck, in the middle 1/3, halfway between the top of the mane and the bottom of the neck. A triangle is created by the front of the shoulder, the bottom of the crest and the top of the vertebrae. (See diagram)   See a video on how to give injections:  Click Here

 

Subcutaneous Injection:

This means injecting under the skin. It is done by picking up a loose fold of skin from the neck or shoulder. Take care not to inject into your fingers or that you push the needle in so much that it comes out on the other side of the skin fold.

Colic Help:

 
If you think your horse is suffering from colic and can't poop, you can try and load the horse into a trailer.  Most horses instinctively poop when nervous or scared, putting them into a trailer may trigger this response and cause a movement.  Keeping or getting the internals for a horse working helps with colic.

Euthanasia:

A horse with fatal injuries or terminal illness may require euthanasia for humane reasons.  The humane killing of a horse is best performed by a lethal injection by a veterinarian. 
 
In the back country, there may not be such an option and humane destruction by gunshot is necessary. 
 
The appropriate site for shooting a horse is at the intersection of lines drawn from the eyes to the base of the ears.  When possible, the horse should be euthanized as far away as possible from water, trails, or campsites and preferably out of sight for aesthetic reason. 
 
The carcass may have to be dismantled to relocate it in an appropriate area.  A large caliber gun/bullet should be used to prevent multiple shots and prolonged suffering. 

 

 

 

 

What’s a War Bridle:

I put this here since this can be used to control some horses when dealing with medical issues.

This is a way to control a horse when no bridle or bit is available or if you want to use a bitless bridle.  If your headstall ever breaks or gets torn off by a tree branch or fence or if you ever end up face to face with a horse lose horse, this is a good way to gain control over a horse.  It can also be used for a little extra control if a horse is hurt or needs medical attention.  It can be very harsh so I do not recommend it to anyone that is too rough or relies on force too much.  The Indians (native Americans) would ride in these bridles for extra control.  This bridle can also be used to lay down a horse in a crisis.  Here is a good video of how a variation of the war bridle can be used.

Twitching:

Although I am not a fan of this, since like a lot things, if done appropriately, can be helpful and when abused do more damage.  So I post this with mixed emotions.  I can only hope that if you are reading my site, you are trying to learn more about horses and will not abuse them.  Twitching strangely enough lowers the heart rate during an unpleasant procedure. A twitched horse's heart rate increases 8%. Horses not twitched during an unpleasant procedure experience a heart rate increase of 22%. The experts say that twitching causes an endorphin release that makes unpleasant experiences less stressful.  In Australia, for example, the handlers who load horses into racing stalls used to be allowed a twitch, but that was outlawed some years ago.  In fact, most Aussie’s think Americans are barbaric for still using this procedure.  I stress the phrase, when done or used appropriately.  Done properly, twitching can defuse what could be a dangerous situation for a horse.  The physical aspect of a twitch is to stimulate the body to release endorphins. This is kind of like giving the horse opium (it gets them stoned or buzzed). It is a powerful relaxant and occurs naturally.  One theory is some predators know this and use this to their benefit. When lions grab a zebra, one usually latches onto the nose. That isn't to shut off the air (that's done by the one at the throat), but to release endorphins. It is a natural preparation for death.  A twitch has to be controlled, which means it has to be able to be released and tightened as the situation develops.  The most common twitches are neck, ear, nose and gum line.  The neck twitch is done with the hand and is used to simulate a horse bite.  You will see a mommy horse disciplining their young by biting and holding them by the neck area.  I have also seen older geldings do this to other horses to teach them.  This neck grab will sometime calm a horse and distract him enough that you can mess with an injury or give a shot.  The ear twitch is not good or effective and I think, tends to cause a horse to be ear shy.  The nose twitch seems to be the one of choice and it can be applied with the hand, rope or chain.  Obviously I don’t like the stupid chain idea, but somewhere, a brilliant horse idiot came up with this revelation and decided that if a hand or rope worked then a chain would work better. “NEWS FLASH” - Chains and horses are BAD!  So back to the hand, by squeezing the nose endorphins are released and the horse is relaxed and preoccupied with you squeezing his nose, so he is less likely to react to you cleaning an injury or giving him a shot.  The gum line seems to be used by Farriers mostly.  It may work but once again, there is a propensity for abuse or over use.  A twitch is a last resort before using a tranquilizer or other drug.  It should not be the first (easy) choice and should be used by EXCEPTION and not routine. (IMHO)

Stomach Ulcers:

I get a few questions on Stomach Ulcers.  I think the best thing we can do to prevent ulcers is to keep a horse in an environment that is close to their natural living conditions.   Ensuring constant forage and or grass hay is always available. This keeps the horse's system constantly moving and working.  Pasture is best, but if stalled this helps as well. Horses are NOT designed to eat like humans.  However, many people treat their horse like they would like and normally this is not good for the horse.  They are not human, they are a horse.  In pasture or by keeping food always available (free choice/free access), the horse’s stomach is never empty.  Since it is believed that stomach acids produce ulcers, by keeping food moving through the stomach, this does not allow acid to build up or stay in the stomach alone.  Of course reducing stress by not keeping the horse alone, blindfolded (fly masks), caged (stalled), uncomfortable (blanketed, hot and sweaty), pampered (over grained/fed sweet feed), also helps.

I like to feed a little before Trailering and immediately after I arrive.  This gets something in the horse’s stomach for the trip, which can be stressful and fearful.  Then by feeding after I unload, I get the system moving and working again to remove any extra acids produced by the trailer trip.  I do NOT feed while trailering.  A trailer is stuffy and or windy, this blows hay and dust which gets in the horse’s eyes and respiratory system, this can make a trip more harmful and more stressful.  The same goes for shaving.  The problem is most people never ride in their trailer to see how hard it is on the horse.  Test it yourself, throw some hay and shavings in the trailer and get in and stand where you horse would be.  Have someone take a short trip on a highway, you will be surprised and your horse will thank you.